Where the real Pula drinks coffee.
Specialty coffee inside the Gradska tržnica, Pula’s iron-and-glass market hall on Narodni trg. A small bar under the old roof, between the produce and the fish. Espresso, cold brew and V60 filter, Monday to Saturday until three.
Opening hours
Mon–Sat 08:00–15:00
9 Narodni trg, 52100 Pula, Croatia
Three reasons to make the walk
The filter
V60 pour-over and cold brew, brewed to order. Nine things on the menu and no shortcuts among them.
The hall
Cast iron and glass, opened in 1903. Still a working market, and one of Pula’s landmark buildings.
The roof
A terrace over the rooftops. Bring the cup up, and the photograph takes itself.
The building
The market hall was built in 1902 and 1903 for the city of Pula, to a design by the Viennese architect Leopold Nobis, with its semicircular iron arches made at the Witkowice ironworks in Moravia. It was the first building in Pula made principally of iron and glass, it opened to the public on 1 April 1903, and it has been a market ever since.
The beans
Beans are sold by the bag from the shelf beside the bar.
The market
The bar stands at the entrance of a working market, and the market is the point. Fish and meat are sold at ground level, under the iron; the shops and the cafés are upstairs, reached by the double stone staircase. The stalls outside carry the produce and the flowers. All of it runs on market time, which is why the coffee stops at three.
The name
Porer is a lighthouse: a single Austro-Hungarian tower on a bare islet off Premantura, at the southern tip of Istria near Cape Kamenjak, south of Pula.
Getting here
On foot, from the places you are likely to be standing.
- The Arena
- 11 min
- The Forum
- 8 min
- The port
- 14 min
Questions
- When is Porer open?
- Monday to Saturday, 8:00 to 15:00. Closed on Sunday.
- Is Porer open on Sunday?
- No. The market keeps Porer’s hours: Monday to Saturday only, from 8:00 until 15:00.
- Where exactly is Porer?
- Inside the Gradska tržnica, Pula’s covered market hall on Narodni trg, at the market entrance.
- Is there non-dairy milk?
- Yes — oat milk, alongside cow’s milk.
- Can I take the coffee away?
- Yes. Coffee is served to take away as well as at the bar and on the terrace.
- Can I buy beans to take home?
- Yes, beans are sold by the bag at the bar.
Come before three
Market hours, not café hours. Earliest is busiest, and the light under the roof is best then too.